The Tayana refit project!

....some shots taken in the shed where they are re-glassing the sidedecks....horribly messy dusty environment...the whole boat is covered in plastic...we took the new bowsprit out to do a prefit and mark the holes for attaching it.....

Tayana bowsprit

...with floors attached...

Tayana Bowsprit details

The project takes shape with the tip shaped to which the crans or crance collar is attached to hold the rigging.  The notches will take the floors for the teak grating and pulpit!

Blog news!

This is a note to ask all you loyal Toketie blog followers to link our blog site to any other sites you might use, such as Facebook or Twitter or your own blog.  Seems the search engines like a blog to be active and the more active and connected it is, the better results you get when searching for it!  The whole google search business is a mystery to me and I guess that's the way they want it but I would like to at least get ours to the point where people can find it when they lose the direct link!!! Thank you

The 'DayDream' bowsprit (cont)

roughed out....beginning to take shape...

Update on the Toketie crew!

I guess we usually think of this blog as news for the people back home!  But along the way, we have made friends who may be curious to know how we are faring back in the land of 'plenty'!
Hard to imagine that over three months have gone by already!  Being back in Victoria and connecting with family and friends is wonderful.  The cyclone that hit the marina in Fiji in December caused some anxiety but hopefully no permanent damage to Toketie.
We have been and still are very busy here!  Linda has taken a six month contract with her old employer and David is helping a friend refit a Tayana 37.  The Tayana project is fairly extensive and is currently in a shed having the decks cut up to remove rot that has occurred over the years.  The chainplates are being replaced in preparation for the new rigging and all fittings topside have been removed.  We recently discovered the bowsprit was rotten so I am making a new one as well.
The Blue Water Cruising Association honoured us with an offshore award for our voyages across the Pacific.
But our minds, mine at least, are already beginning to turn to the future and I expect to book a return flight to Fiji in late April sometime with Linda following in June.  The suitcases are already overflowing with new instruments, blades for the wind generator and many other things difficult to find in Fiji.  Not sure where we are going from there!  Toketie has to leave Fiji by November when her visiting status expires.  We had thought of spending another season there but are now leaning towards carrying on West to Australia via New Caledonia and maybe Vanuatu.

In the words of the immortal Bob Marley..."every little thing gonna be all right"!

The Tayana Bowsprit project!

The old bowsprit with rot throughout the center section!

The Tayana Bowsprit project!

Clear, edge grain, quarter sawn old growth fir planks from a mill in Sooke!

The Tayana Bowsprit project!

Laminated with resorcinal to last a 100 years!

Happy 2010 everyone!

Victoria, BC and the year starts in a fog!

tis the season...

MERRY CHRISTMAS TO ALL AND TO ALL A GOOD NIGHT!

first reports from Vuda Point

Well, first reports are in from friends who rode out cyclone Mick on board their boats in Vuda Point Marina, Fiji.  Winds in excess of 100 kts were recorded in the marina and very heavy rains.  John and Renee on Scarlett O'Hara reported that it was like being at sea, the motion was so rough within the shelter of the marina.  But in spite of this, no obvious damage to any of the boats has been found.  We are having them check to see if any of the heavy rains found its way into the interior of Toketie!  Others apparently were not so lucky.  A cruise ship was blown ashore, two local fishermen never made it home and at least one sailboat in Musket Cove was blown onto the beach.  Another sailboat in the Yasawa Islands group was reported to be in trouble but we do not know which boat or what the outcome was.

Meanwhile, back in Victoria, we have both found employment and will try to top up the cruising kitty so we can carry on with the 'real' life!

And as a special surprise, the Blue Water Cruising Association honoured us at the monthly meeting with a beautiful plaque recognizing our Pacific Ocean crossing!

latest news...

and this just in....winds gusting to 130 kph......heavy rains and flooding....looks like an almost direct hit on Nadi Airport....Vuda Point Marina is very close.....

Tropical Cyclone 'Mick'

The first named storm of the season is now barrelling down on Fiji!  TC Mick with winds increasing to 55 kts or more is passing over Fiji on today.  

For a satellite image try http://www.met.gov.fj/aifs_prods/00sat.html  

Hopefully Toketie is securely tucked into the 'hole'!!!

The treadmill!

Well, we are back in Victoria, BC.  We both have found short term gainful employment so the cruising kitty will be replenished.  It has been below freezing for several nights now and they are forecasting snow this weekend.  The weeks are flying by with family and friends.  All is well and we miss our cruising buddies and lifestyle!  Hope everyone has a wonderful holiday season!

brrrrrr!

Back in Victoria!  Caused quite a stir at airport security in my new duds.....they especially objected to my razor sharp samurai sword but I claimed religious freedom rights and threatened to cut off their heads.....currently hoping to make bail if any of my friends see this.....

Seoul Tower

...not nearly as high as Toronto's CN tower but a lot more concrete stretching all around it.....

Seoul City

...the view from Seoul Tower...the tower is centrally located and the city stretches the same in all directions....

King's consort house

The king's retreat

...only the king can cross this bridge to be alone in comtemplation....

Roof detail at the Royal Palace

The figures on the eves indicate the importance of the building....always an odd number and eleven being the highest

Jogyesa Buddhist Temple

Three aspects of the Buddha.....

Gyeongbokgung Palace, Seoul, Korea

Over 600 years of history here.  The king's primary residence.

Seoul, Korea

Arrived in Seoul after 10 1/2 hour flight with Korean Air.  They were very pleasant to travel with, reminded me of when airlines did not treat you like cattle!  Incheon International Airport in Seoul is huge!  Serving a city of over 22 million and acting as a hub to Asia, Europe and N America.  The efficiency was impressive.  We picked up our bags, cleared customs (non event) and boarded a modern bus for the 1 1/2 hour ride into town.  We found our hotel with minimum fuss, people are very helpful though English is sparse.  Leaving our bags behind and a bit weary, we wandered the streets in search of a late snack.  We found a wonderful little restaurant full of locals and had a pile of bar b q chicken and other things I'm sure we'll learn the names of before we leave.  Today we are off to see the town....no small feat!

Toketie to bed!

Toketie has been stripped of all her canvas and much of her gear!  She sleeps comfortably in 'the hole' at Vuda Point Marina in Fiji.  We have packed our bags and fly to Seoul, Korea tomorrow morning where we will spend four nights before flying to Vancouver and Victoria.  See you all (back in BC) soon!!!

gecko!

this is the third guest from the lizard family we have had on board.....they are very cute and cuddly....if you can catch them...and they eat bugs!

Vuda Pt Yacht Club Bar

A wonderful view of the setting sun, Sabrina the shiny black bar cat with the emerald green eyes (must be some Irish there) rubbing against your leg and very politely asking what you are having for dinner and whether you are willing to 'share'.....and the entrance to the marina, at low tide a 10' deep channel cut through the reef.....many happy hours spent here with the sound of the geckos chirping in the beams....

"the grave"

A view of the 'hole' that Toketie will be nestled into next month to sit out the cyclone season in Fiji.  The keel rests below ground and the hull is supported on piles of old tires....

kids on Waya Island!

We met these young pirates when we were walking the beach in the Yasawas!

Back in Vuda Point Marina!

After two tsunami alerts and then the wind going round to the North making our quiet little bay a nightmare, we upped and made our way back around to the marina.....with all those amenities....like hot water, laundry, wifi, the yacht club restaurant....wow!  Now if only there was a bit of breeze and we could breath in this stifling heat!

shakin, rattlin, but still rollin

October 8, 2009

Thursday here, Wednesday back home in Victoria! The rain had passed in the night, washing the decks off for us. So we dragged the dinghy up on the beach and started walking up the hot dusty road to the highway. We were soon offered a lift by the young local Coca-Cola rep. As he turned South at the highway, we flagged down a bus into Lautoka and while making our way from the market to an internet café, we were told by a scruffy looking individual on the street that a 'tsunami' warning had just gone into effect for Fiji. Ignoring him at first, we quickly realized there was something different about the rhythm of the town. Shops were closing down, lots of people on the streets, traffic jams. We were in the grocery store and soon realized that the warning was for real. I told Linda to abandon the cart and we flagged a taxi in front of the store. The radio was blaring with the news that an earthquake in Vanuatu, just 500 miles West of Fiji, had occurred below the sea and was expected to generate a tsunami wave striking the West coast of Fiji within an hour. The taxi crawled along as everyone tried to head for higher ground. Schools were closed and children bussed to safe locations. The wave was forecast to be as high as 8 meters! We had left the hatches open on Toketie and some portholes and were anchored in a shallow bay on the West side of Viti Levu, one of the most exposed and vulnerable coasts in this case. By the time the taxi was free of the town and the traffic jam, there was only 10 minutes left till the wave was expected to arrive on the shores of Fiji. Going down to the boat at this point would be too risky so we got out at a gas station on the highway overlooking the bay. We could not see Toketie from here but had a clear view to the West where a wave was expected to appear any minute now. An hour later, nothing had happened and the alert was canceled. We walked down to the beach and gratefully retrieved our dinghy from the beach and went home.glad to be safe and still have a boat.
Never a dull moment when you live on the edge.of the world!

boat chores!

One more porthole completed! Seems to take two days to get through each one...only two left to do! Weather has gone from bright hot sun to heavy humid overcast with no wind. Feels like just before a heavy rain! But it is quiet in this anchorage and the days slide by.....

tsunami!

We woke up to talk of a tsunami warning in Fiji yesterday! It was cancelled a few hours later with no noticeable surge here. Have heard brief reports of death and destruction in the Samoas and devastation of a village in Nuatoputapu in N Tonga. Reminds us we are travelling in an area of geological instability where volcanos and earthquakes are a reality! By the way, how is that San Andrea Fault line holding up? :)

Sevu-Sevu

This traditional ceremony is still practiced in the remote villages. We were anchored in Yalobi Bay on the South end of Waya Island, which is part of the Yasawa Island chain in the Western part of Fiji. Some of these small islands are uninhabited, many now have rustic 'backpacker' resorts. Yesterday, on arriving, we rowed to shore and asked for the 'Tui Waya' which I assumed meant the chief or headman of the village. The children pointed us to an elderly man sitting on the beach under the palm trees lining the shore. We approached him and were invited to sit on the sand with him. He was sitting with a young woman named Tamma who operated a backpacker resort in the village. This was the first time since we have been in Fiji that we have attempted the Sevu-Sevu ceremony. We placed the bundle of Yaquona root before us on the sand. This plant, sold in most markets in the cities, is ground up and mixed with water to make kava, a mild narcotic that men, traditionally, though western women have been seen to participate, consume socially. Our brief encounter with it in Tonga found it to be very mild. Tui ignored the proffered gift at first and smilingly asked us questions about where we came from, where we had been, our families and Toketie. He told us the village did not have a chief at the moment but after sharing conversation for a while, he agreed to accept our gift, clapped his hands three times and welcomed us to the village. We were now formally under their protection and as guests could wander freely. Tui asked us what we would like to do while visiting and we mentioned hiking, as the island was mountainous, much like some of the volcanic islands in the Marquesas. He said there were many trails and advised using a guide.
Today the sky is clear, the sun is very hot and there is no breeze. It is very peaceful in the bay. We rowed ashore and decided it was too hot a day to attempt a hike. On seeing us, Tui and Tamma waved us into a grass hut with open sides with a long table. He asked if we were interested in any crafts they made and began to spread out before us an assortment of necklaces of amacite, shells, seeds, sharks teeth, as well as some decorative cloth made into sulus or wraps. We picked up a few gifts to take home and walked the length of the beach along the village. Several other families welcomed us, one young man knocking a coconut from a tree and hacking the top off for us to drink. Another older lady took us into her grass hut to show us her crafts, of which we bought a small blue beaded necklace, supposedly mother of pearl.
Later in the day, the wind came up from the South and was blowing directly into the bay. We swung on our anchor close to the reef lining the shore and the swells started to build, foretelling an anxious night on anchor watch and little sleep. Nature had once again intruded into our tranquil paradise.
By first light, we were bouncing in the large swells rolling into the bay and the anchor alarm was going off indicating less than six feet between our keel and the reef. We pulled up the anchor and motor sailed our way back to the big island for the shelter of Saweni Bay where we had been so comfortable before.
So we are back in our quiet little bay and the sun is shining again. We will probably stay here and work on the list of boat chores Toketie seems to endlessly acquire. It is peaceful and sheltered and good holding. There is only one other boat in the bay at the moment but last night several came in for the night and left early in the morning. We can swim here and there is a beach to explore and if really desperate, we could walk up to the highway and catch the bus into Lautoka. But for now we are relaxing and thinking of people and places far away. In November, we will be back in Victoria and that may be a shock to our tropically acclimated systems!
For the moment, we are out of wifi range so we can only be reached via winlink!

September 22, 2009 – Vuda Point Marina, Fiji

After 7 relaxing weeks at Musket Cove, we have finally slipped our mooring and motored in very light air the three hours back to Vuda Point Marina.  Our water tanks were getting low and potable water is a luxury on the outer islands.  Running out of beer and wine had nothing to do with the decision!

The last week in Musket Cove saw torrential tropical rainfall for about 12 hours straight, followed by brisk 30 kt winds.  We had a couple of movie and reading days on board and when the sun came out again, the dozen or more boats in the bay converged on the Island Bar to fire up the barbq pits and share stories about how none of us know exactly where we will go to next!  Musket Cove is a wonderful place and they make it very easy to stay.  A protected anchorage with plenty of moorings, most supplies readily available, reasonable drinks at the Island Bar, and of course the swimming pool.  Not to mention great hiking trails and friendly people.  Our favourite bartender, Vasiti, took these pics of an octopus right at the edge of the bar.  I had seen a larger one in the same area a couple of weeks before, but did not have the camera along.  And we saw the biggest turtle we have ever seen several times out in the bay, not to mention the small fish antics as they ruffle the surface of the water, probably running from barracuda or mahi-mahi.  

But now we are sweltering in the heat in the marina where very little breeze can penetrate.  Yesterday we rode the chicken bus into Lautoka and stocked up on supplies.  Last night was $10 pizza night at the resort next door so a whole gang of people descended on it.  Today, filling water tanks and tidying up!

Only 6 more weeks and Toketie will be 'put to bed' for 6 months while we fly to Seoul for a few days on the way home to Victoria.  Looking forward to family and friends and Mikey's wine!!!!

Octopus at Musket Cove

Our favorite Island Bartender, Vasiti, took these wonderful pics at the edge of the water! (remember that if you click on a pic, it will enlarge it)

Musket Cove Regatta Pirates Day!

After the 'rum' inoculation, things started to get 'out of hand', at least for those who still had their hands!  When this wench tried to steal me, well things just got sillier from there....

Spectacular skies!

The sunsets have been performing well lately!  Weather is fairly settled right now with hot sunny days and a breeze if we are lucky.  At night it cools off comfortably.  Our daily routine of boat chores to swimming pool to showers to sundowners is mesmerizing us into apathy!  So we have signed up for the festivities next week when the annual Musket Cove Regatta kicks off.  About 80 boats have registered so there should be lots of partying with trips to outer islands and silliness all around.  As the only Canadian boat registered this year, we will have to represent the country!

Linda is off kayaking with a kiwi friend so I might get ambitious and clean the long green slimy stuff off the prop!

another hike on Malolo Island!

It was an overcast day, threatening to rain, so perfect for hiking!  Tide was extremely low this morning so we crossed between the islands and followed the beach......this young fellow dogged our footsteps along the way....

Musket Cove anchorage!

Beautiful view from the top of the hill!  The light coloured bits are reefs!  You can just see Toketie....dark hull to the far right!

On a hike!

....miles from nowhere....

Take a hike!

Eh!

Coconut Plantation!

The ubiquitous coconut!

....great with rum!

Andre, Sivo & Manasa

These young pastors were collecting sea cucumbers on the reef at low tide!

Sunset in Musket Cove!

....and another glorious day comes to a close in Fiji!

Relaxing!

Actually got into the water yesterday!  First time since Tonga last year.  The Island Cruising Association rally fleet were having a picnic on a sand bar, at least for a few hours they were, till the sand bar disappeared with the tide!  I drifted out to the edge and snorkelled over some beautiful clumps of live coral full of tropical fish.  Later we inflated the kayaks and spent a couple of hours drifting around the bay.

Today was a 'pool' day!  Hot sun drove us in to swim in the pool and lounge on the beach.  Tonight we will have Tom & Dawn from 'Warm Rain' over and say goodbye as they prepare to leave with the 20 rally boats to Vanuatu.

We will stay behind and struggle to maintain this hectic pace!

The view from our deck!

This is the Fiji we were looking for!  

Life's a 'Beach'!

Watch out for falling coconuts!  Lounge chairs all along the beach!  Hammocks galore!  And the sunset....every night!

The pool at Musket Cove!

This resort is very 'yachtie' friendly!  We have complete access to all their facilities.  Enjoying the pool!

The Island Bar!

$2 drinks!  bar b q pits!  laid back folks!  jimmy buffet where are you?

Paradise found!

Today we finally arrived in Fiji!  At least it felt that way, the hot tropical sun, the white sandy beaches, the clear water and coloured fishies!  We left the Vuda Point Marina after our two day haulout and patch to the minor damage caused by the reef.  Shortest haulout this year, mind you it was also the third haulout this year!

We motored in very light air across a flat sea to Malolo Lailai Island in the Mamanuca Group.  I can see why people spend extra to fly here.  It is truly beautiful and that's not only because we spent the last two months in rainy Suva!

We are connecting with friends we have not seen since NZ, tonight we went in for the bar b q at the Island Bar where they fire up the pits and you bring your own to throw on the fire.  The climate here is very comfortable with a nice breeze to offset the heat of the tropical sun and it cools off enough at night to sleep!

In fact, we like it so much here we have decided to park Toketie for the cyclone season and fly home to reconnect with family and friends.  

Meanwhile it is time to relax and enjoy this incredible place!  Tomorrow is a beach day!  The first since Tonga last year and we are due, the list of boat chores can wait....at least another day!

Good news!

Today we hauled out to survey damage from going on the reef on Snake Island!

minor scratches to bottom of keel!

what a relief!  After pounding on the reef for almost an hour, this is the only superficial damage we sustained!  Now we appreciate why we have a steel boat!

Seke!

Seke works for Baobab, the only game in town.  Very professional, very knowledgeable and took care of us same day!  Also a nice guy eh!

primer coat

After sanding down the area with a grinder, Seke applied the first coat of primer!

epoxy coat

same day, second coat of epoxy applied....we are lookin' good!

Snake Island!

At high tide you cannot see the reef but this is where Toketie went aground at 3AM when a squall came through and broke us from the mooring!  No snakes in sight at the time fortunately!

The dock at Tradewinds anchorage

This is what we scrambled up and down on every trip to town.  It was much steeper at low tide!

Vuda Point Marina

Toketie is now stern tied with two lines to moorings and bow tied with two lines to the concrete shore.  To get off, we pull one of the forward lines in and step off the bowsprit onto the stubby dock alongside.  We are scheduled to haulout and survey the bottom tomorrow to ascertain whether we were damaged on the reef.  It is definitely sunnier this side of Fiji.  Today the wind is up though with 30 knot gusts out of the SE.  We are safely sheltered in the marina though and spoiling ourselves with hot showers, boat washdowns and a laundromat!  Last night we even found half price pizza night at a nearby resort.  Feels like luxury after living on the hook for so long!  

Keep on the sunny side!

Another 12 hr day saw us around to the W side of Fiji. Even got to sail some of it! Anchored in Momi Bay as the sun set in the sea to the W of us with darkness close behind. Will relax here for two nights before going into Latauko to clear in. Much clearer sky and sunnier here than Suva. Last night a billion stars turned the sky to a magic canopy with the Southern Cross always hanging in the S.

left Suva!

Toketie has finally left Suva! Almost 2 months gone by there. Now anchored about 40nm West and half way to Lautoka. Weather sun and cloud with 20kt tradewind pushing us along.

Toketie heading to Oz!

We just had multiple entry long term visas approved for Australia so have decided to bypass Vanuatu this year and head for New Caledonia before making our way to Brisbane, Australia or nearby for the cyclone season.  But first we still have to go around to the other side of Fiji and haulout to make sure we did not sustain any major damage to the hull.
If anyone reading this has contact information for John & Masumi or Ted & Helmie in Australia, pls email it to us or post it as a comment on the blog.
Sun shining today!

Still in Suva!

We are still in Suva!  One thing after another seems to delay us.  Getting close to ready now and looking at the weather for a chance to slip around the corner to Lautoka area.

More tails from the snake pit!

Outboard motor is running again!  Finding pieces of dead snake daily as they come flying out the flywheel!  Still stinks in there so there must be more.  Gearshift no longer shifts so when you crank the engine, its off you go!  Speaking of which, we hope to be ready to go in a few days!